Tuesday, February 28, 2017

Wat Umong

Getting back to our more immediate “Thai life,” we opted to visit an out-of-the-way temple recommended by a fellow expat.

700 year old chedi
Built in 1297, Wat Umong, also known Wat Umong Suan Puthatham, is a Buddhist temple that was once in the distant forests outside of Chiang Mai.  Now the city proper is pushing its boundaries closer and closer to the temple grounds.

We decided to explore and walked to the temple.  Google maps indicated the trip would take 47 minutes. It took us 1½ hours.

On our walk we encountered a Thai market not geared to the expat trade.

We found fruits, nuts, meats, vegetables, fish and all foods that comprise the Thai diet on display. Helen purchased some dried strawberries and a package of fried mushrooms. We the left the market, crossed the canal and began a series of lefts, rights and lefts on side streets.

Wat Umong

We finally arrived at this quiet, wooded temple complex. Unfortunately, it's now located just west of the north end of the Chiang Mai airport.  The temple serenity is intermittently interrupted by two-engine Airbus aircraft gunning their engine as they climb and bank to some western destination.   The original temple builders could never have anticipated such a modern neighbor.

Nonetheless, the complex does have a serene, contemplative feel.

The temple is famous for its three prayer tunnels and large chedi.  The three tiled tunnels behind the large chedi each have separate entrances that lead to a statue of a Buddha. We removed our shoes and carried them as we respectfully walked the tunnels.

The tunnels were cool and quiet. It is not hard to imagine the numerous monks and ordinary Thais who sought these tunnels to stimulate and support their prayer and meditation.

We walked the tunnels until we emerged at steps that lead us to the large stupa that dominates this 15-acre complex which is still active and houses modern day monks. It has a museum (closed) and a small food stalls near the small lake on the grounds.

We were not looking forward to the 1½  hour walk back to our apartment. Helen spied a songteaw (red taxi) parked with the driver napping in the back. After some negotiation, we had a 20-minute ride back into town for 40 baht each.



Sunday, February 26, 2017

What's New

Local Chiang Mai News

The websites below provide English language insight into local Chiang Mai news and events.

  • City Life.  This online and hard copy magazine is a very good source of information about events and happenings in Chiang Mai.
  • Chiang Mai Mail.  This online newspaper provides insight on local events. It's a good source for understanding day-to-day issues impacting local Thais.
  • Our Chiang Mai. This website appears to be more blog than news outlet. The website is maintained by volunteers with a common goal of protecting and preserving Chiang Mai for future generations.

International News

We have had no trouble accessing online versions of major US newspapers such as the New York Times, Washington Post, Fox News and our hometown Atlanta Journal Constitution.

Accessing live stream news services has been more problematic.  For example, we typically stream MSNBC from http://www.msnbc.com/now. We have found that here in Chiang Mai we get "the selected item not currently available."

Selecting video on YouTube results in "The uploader has not made this video available in your country."

We did find this website http://www.livenewson.com that provides live streaming of news shows from the America, United Kingdom, India, etc.

Enjoy.

Per the About page for this website, 

LiveNewsbox is established with the aim of connecting people around the world with latest news channels in their native language. Anyone can watch their preferred news, anywhere in the world, by simply switching to the LiveNewsBox website. Our News Channels Live TV Streaming HD now supports Apple iPhone, iPad and all Android Smartphones and Tablets.

The service is reliable and free.




Saturday, February 25, 2017

Expat Monthly Meeting

Based on research prior to departing to Thailand, we noted the recurring meetings of the Chiang Mai Expat Club.

The club holds it monthly meeting at the Le Meridien Hotel on the 4th Saturday of every month.  The meeting begins at 10:30 am, but socializing takes place before the meeting.  Dress is casual.

The cost to attend the General Meeting is 150 baht for members, 250 baht for visitors.  Coffee, tea and pastries are served.

The meeting draws 100 - 150 people who assemble in a ballroom outfitted with large round tables to hear a featured speaker.

Expat Monthly Meeting

We arrived via songtaew from our apartment after having some unexpected difficulties acquiring an Uber.

Each time when we were assigned a driver, the wait time for the driver's arrival kept on getting longer and longer.

We arrived at the hotel, got our nametags and paid the 500 baht admission ($14.70) for both of us to attend.

During the pre-meeting socializing time, Jay chatted with Dave about the process and cost he followed to acquire his retirement visa.  Dave indicated that he used OS Visa to process his paperwork.  The retirement visa, along with an additional multi-entry visa capability, cost about 12,000 baht ($350.00).
People at the Monthly Expat Meeting
Other expats have explained they have handled all the visa processing themselves.

The featured speaker at today's meeting was Pim Kemasingki, the editor of Chiang Mai's City Life magazine.

After the formal presentation, we chatted with two newcomers from Sydney, Australia.  John and Dee who are on a ten month travel adventure.

They have already visited Singapore, Kuala Lumpur and Penang, Malaysia before arriving in Chiang Mai for three weeks.  Afterwards they are headed to Italy and the UK to visit family.

And we thought our one-month to Thailand was pretty hoity-toity.  We are impressed by their daring do.

New Friends

Helen, John, Dee at Italics Restaurant
Following this delightful encountered with John and Dee, we made plans to have dinner together that evening.

Jay selected Italics Restaurant and Rise Bar.

We had drinks on the rooftop Rise Bar and then a wonderful dinner in the Italics restaurant.

Afterwards we Uber'd to the Night Bazaar.


Travel Tips


  • On a visit make an effort to attend scheduled Expat Club meetings.  These meeting provide great opportunities to gather information on expat housing options, sightseeing trips in Chiang Mai, Thailand and other information related to expat living in Chiang Mai.






Friday, February 24, 2017

Heading West from the Maya

Walking West

As we were walking familiar territory on Huaykeaw Road,  Helen wanted to check out the Gold Hillside Gym. The gym is just a 10-minute walk west from our Pansook apartment.

We were shocked, shocked when we entered the building lobby.  

Hillside Condo Lobby
We entered what appeared to be an older, upscale facility. Near the gym was a sitting area of cushion-covered chairs surrounded by the sound of gently falling water from nearby fountains.  Also inside the complex were a coffee shop, travel agent and several furniture stores.

We discovered as we walked further back in this complex that this area serviced the beautiful Hillside 4 Condo and Furama complexes.  

Who knew?

The Land Beyond Maya

We continued our western walk on Huaykaew Road toward and past Maya.  

Not far from Maya on the opposite side of the road we found Northern Farms, a small grocery store that appears to be a (frozen) meat and wine shop whose dusty shelves were mostly bottles of wine less expensive than at Tops.

We also discovered two bike shops with some high-end bicycles. 

Fish and Chips Dinner 

In the evening, we had a fish and chips dinner at Archer’s Bar & Restaurant with a bunch of expats including Tom and Shawn, Jim and Cheron, Barry and Pen, Keith and others.

Afterwards many of us walked over to Oods for an evening of musical entertainment. We discovered that Keith, a newly befriended expat,  has a wonderful singing voice.  

Great evening.


We Uber’d back to the Pansook with Tom and Shawn.

Thursday, February 23, 2017

Helen and Jay's Most Excellent Adventure - Chiang Rai

What a long and interesting day…a very long day…15 hours!

We were off on the Bon Voyage “Chiang Rai - WhiteTemple, Long Neck Karen and Golden Triangle" tour that we booked the previous day.  

In the morning there was a little confusion on which Pansook (there are two), at which we were staying. We connected via mobile phone with our guide and were in the van by 7:30am.

The tour supplied an air-conditioned van, a dedicated driver and dedicated guide (Nin).  The group included people from Indonesian (2), France (2), China (3), Germany (2), Japan (1) and our US contribution (2).  Min conducted the tour in English and Chinese.

Summary of the Tour

  • Hotel pick up (from 7:00 to 7:45 am, depending on your location. Our pickup was 7:30.)
  • Hot springs and emporium
  • Bathroom stops coming and going at a 7-11
  • Lunch stop for an Ayara Thai cuisine buffet near the Golden Triangle (unknown restaurant; we didn’t arrive here until 2:30 pm)
  • White Temple
  • Visit to long-neck Karen women and emporium
  • River boat ride on the Mekong River to Don Sao Island in Laos and emporium
  • Drive and brief stop at Mae Sai the northern city on the Thai - Myanmar border 
  • Photo op in front of Golden Triangle signage (Thailand, Laos and Myanmar)
  • Hotel drop off (10:30 pm)

White Temple

White Temple
The highlight of the trip was the White Temple in Chiang Rai. We thought it was going to be an old temple that had been constructed in white, much like the Taj Mahal in India. Wrong! The White Temple is a newly constructed temple. 

Admission to the temple compound is free for Thais and 50 baht ($1.47) for foreigners.  

Wat Rong Khun, better known as The White Temple, was designed and financed by the famous Thai visual artist Chalermchai Kositpipat. 

Raised Hands from Hell (Temptation)

The temple opened to the public in 1997. In 2014 the temple was damaged by an earthquake.  

It took two years to restore the temple. We, therefore, toured a relatively newly opened temple.

Since this is a “modern” temple there is recognizable imagery to our 21st century sensibilities. We suspect temples of the 1300’s also had recognizable imagery to their contemporary visitors.


After passing a moat of gray, upraised, grasping hands symbolizing desire and hell, you pass over a bridge representing the cycle of re-birth (you must not stop on this bridge). 

Gates of Heaven
At the top of the bridge, you pass through the Gate of Heaven and finally enter the Ubosot, or the main building.

The building, and many others in the compound, have many ornate finials and are white and covered with millions of pieces of small mirrors that reflect the sun and sparkle beyond belief.

The Ubosot, or main building, contains the required large golden Buddha and the wax figure of a dead and revered monk. 
Modern Images inside the White Temple

The art on the walls contains both traditional, contemplative Thai temple art as well as imagery of Superman, The Matrix, Michael Jackson, Elvis, Spiderman, the destruction of New York City World Trade Center Towers, and more.

The grounds of the temple were beautiful and extremely well maintained with green lawns and many baskets of flowers.

This modern temple is simply jaw-dropping.

Lunch

We arrived at the lunch stop at 2:30 pm.  We were grateful that we brought some snacks and water along. There were, however, opportunities to purchase food and water at the Hot Springs and bathroom stops.

The buffet lunch was very good.  We had a grand conversation with two young German men. We discussed our new president, Donald Trump.  Evidently, he is scaring and confusing Europeans as much as Americans.  

Karen Long Neck Village

Long Neck woman and Helen
The stop at the Karen village is another opportunity to buy some things.  However, the real interest here is meeting up close the "long neck" women of the village.

Girls start to wear brass rings around their necks when they are around 5 years old. Over the years, the coil is replaced by a longer one and more turns are added. 

The weight of the brass (4-5 kilo) pushes the collar bone down and compresses the rib cage. The neck itself is not lengthened.

The theories on the origin of wearing brass rings around the neck include: making women less attractive to slavers from other tribes, providing a greater sense of slender beauty, making women resemble a dragon (an important figure in folklore), to making the women safe from tiger bites to the neck.  

At this point, the brass rings have provided a 21st century financial incentive to include this village on tours offered to northern Thailand. Helen purchased a hand-loomed blue shawl for 150 baht ($4.40).

Optional Boat Ride to Laos

Getting on the boat
The boat ride on the Mekong River to Don Sao Island in Laos was something of a bust.  Our boat guide, Mr. Banana, was the main attraction.  

On the ride to the island, Mr. Banana gave us a million facts about the river and the three countries we could see. Did you know there are 9,400 7-11's in Thailand?

On the ride back he quizzed us on the facts and then offered worthless Chinese currency as a prize for a correct answer.  To add interest and create audience participation, singers were asked to volunteer. Helen raised her hand.

Bottoms Up!
She invited everyone to sing “You are my Sunshine” and she “won” her prize and brought cheers from the 30+ people on the boat.

The main attraction at the emporium on the island was whiskey that was bottled with various creatures such as scorpions, snakes, tiger penis (really) and other weird things.

A taste offered by the tour guides allowed us to determine the actual whiskey was just plain grain alcohol.  Egad!  We passed.

Golden Triangle

The last sight-seeing stop was for a photo op of the Golden Triangle (view of three countries – Thailand, Myanmar and Laos).

The four-hour drive home included a 15-minute bathroom break at a 7-11. No stop for dinner. Note: Unless you want sandwiches, cookies or chips at 7-11, bring your own food/snacks.

We were back home by 10:30pm.

Travel Tips

  • Make sure your tour company has your mobile number. We called the tour office the day before the trip to make sure the driver came to the correct Pansook (there are two). Well, that didn't work, but confirmed that the driver had our mobile number.
  • Bring Thai coins on the trip. Bathrooms at emporium stops charge 5 baht for their use. There was no charge at the bathroom at the 7-11 stop.
  • Bring at least one bottle of water per person and granola bars or other snacks.
  • Our Thai driver drove like a local Thai. That is, speeding, crossing double yellow lines to pass vehicles and wandering across the center line on curves. Not sure he ever checked his rearview mirror. We never felt like we were in serious danger, but we wore our seat belts.